anyone a mechanic

More heat, just when you think its hot enough, burn the shit of it some more, 1" breaker bar and jump on bastard, make sure your losening and not tightning though, some shaft ends have oposite thread patterns.

Does it have a cotter pin holding it or crimped bolt?

Mr_Head is right, more heat. Propane just isn't hot enough by itself. You need a torch set up with oxygen. Acetylene oxy set up would be the best and easiest to find. Fine threads and rust = pain in the @##. Good luck on your project.

Grubb Industries wrote: Does it have a cotter pin holding it or crimped bolt?

I is a crimped 32mm axle nut. I finally got them off. Used heat and penetrating lube and a larger breaker bar and got them off. Now i have a new problem but is easily remedied with more money lol. When i was removing the cv axle on the drivers side i pulled the bearings out. 🙁 New clutch, new motor mounts and a new cv axle. I want a new car.

the bearing is pressed in and can only have jus "come out" if it was fucked anyway, but it seem unlikely. is it the bearing on the gearbox side?, if so it will need pressed in i would imagine, that mean gearbox out too, but if your doing the clutch anyway its no big deal

Mr_head wrote: the bearing is pressed in and can only have jus "come out" if it was fucked anyway, but it seem unlikely. is it the bearing on the gearbox side?, if so it will need pressed in i would imagine, that mean gearbox out too, but if your doing the clutch anyway its no big deal

sorry, i meant the slide bearings in the cv axle, not a regular pressed-in round bearing. that round thing in the middle is 1 of 3 bearings, and they are supposed to be inside the drum on the left. i tried many times to re-assemble the cv-axle but i decided to buy a new one. it was my bad and i paid for it. but now everything is mended. 220$ for clutch, 200$ on tools, 70$ for cv axle, and 40$ for motor mount. YAY!!!!

that is toast, you need a new axel.